Examining a map of the area, one easily finds a fistful of water that reaches from the sea in to land, largely separating Uruguay to the northwest and Argentina to the south east. What seems clearly the bay on which Buenos Aires is perched is, in actuality, the muddy mouth of the widest river in the world: The 120 mile wide Rio Del Plata. For a scant $30 dollars each, Lucy and I boarded a ferry and crossed it’s chocolate milk waters towards Colonia Del Sacramento, Uruguay.
Colonia is delightful. Though small, we felt happily occupied with its charms over our 2 days and nights there. Its cobblestone streets amble under drooping, parrot filled trees – dead ending in picture perfect views of tiny islands in the rio. Its historic old town seems to blur and re-materialize, some streets disappearing under time and earth, only to appear around a corner into a lighthouse, or a sidewalk cafe, or a row of white washed Mediterranean homes planted over in roses or cactus. The small marina was tranquil and beautiful, and its vestigial ruins pretty and well maintained. We spent much of our first day simply strolling, smiling and enjoying the quiet beauty of it, ending it all with a sunset perch on the rio, amazed at the long sunshadows distant Buenos Aires etched in to the pink skies.
It was rumored that there was an abandoned bull ring a few miles outside of old town, so much of our second day was spent on the long playa walk to the north in search of it. And here are some fun facts we discovered along the way: There are wild Guinea Pigs here. Teenagers ride fancy horses here. I had the best fresh churros ever here, and I ate 10 of them (they were 2 dollars a dozen!).
The bullring itself was beautiful and stately from the curb. Slipping through the fence, we stepped out on to its bleachers for a moment, but its shifting, crumbling steps posed more of a risk than we originally estimated, so we carefully made our way to the grass pitch. Still not sure why they mow the lawn of a condemned building.
Returning from the long walk, we got to witness the true Uruguayan passion: taking of Yerba Mate. Sure they have mate in Argentina, Brazil and Paraguay, but Uruguayans clearly take it more seriously. As the sun made its way slowly down, we watched group after group, family after family settle along the narrow strip of sea-side grass, sharing mates. Old folks on lawn chairs, teenagers leaning against mopeds, and everyone in between, slurping down brew, sharing stories, taking it slow.
As we left for the ferry the next morning, the streets were filled with home built race cars and husband and wife driving teams – with the classic cars that normally line the streets of tiny Colonia, I was reminded that I had read once that Uruguay had a motor obsession. How cool!
With your laid back self and your legal marijuana and your race cars and your mate and your Guinea pigs and your churros … Uruguay, you’re ok by us.